Cream Polish Help PageUpdated a day ago
Saphir shoe polish color recommendations organized by finish name, most familiar from Allen Edmonds and Carmina, but useful for matching any dress shoe in a similar shade.
Allen Edmonds Color Match
Find your shoe's finish, then choose from the recommended polish colors below. Where more than one option is listed, the first is the closest overall match.
Bourbon and Merlot are based on Saphir's own color descriptions rather than an official Allen Edmonds match chart, treat them as a starting point.
| Finish | Recommended Colors |
|---|---|
| Black | #01 BlackPerfect, direct pigment match. |
| Walnut | #03 Light BrownClosest direct match for light tan. #10 CognacEnhances the warm, golden-orange undertones. |
| Bourbon | #10 CognacA warm, classic cognac tone that suits Bourbon's rich caramel color. #37 Medium BrownA milk-chocolate alternative if Cognac reads too warm or orange. |
| Dark Chili | #34 Tobacco BrownRicher, earthier base, can slightly darken. #09 MahoganyPop of red-brown to preserve the "chili" warmth. #37 Medium BrownA safe chocolate tone that avoids altering the color. |
| Chili | #09 MahoganyBest overall match to maintain the classic Chili red-brown. #12 Hermès RedBoosts the red tones for a more vibrant, rich look. #34 Tobacco BrownSubtler option if you prefer less red and a more earthy finish. |
| Coffee | #37 Medium BrownMost accurate, true chocolate-brown match. #34 Tobacco BrownGood alternative if you prefer a more muted, earthy tint. |
| Dark Brown / Tumbled | #05 Dark BrownDirect match for deep, near-black espresso tones. |
| Oxblood | #12 Hermès RedIntensifies vibrant, true red-purple depths. #09 MahoganyPulls the color back toward a warm, reddish-brown. #08 BordeauxDeepens the cool, plum-grape undertones. |
| Merlot | #08 BordeauxA warm burgundy shade made for deep wine-red leather. #87 PlumSimilar to Bordeaux but leans more purple, worth trying if Merlot reads cooler. |
| Navy | #06 Blue Marine / NavySpot-on match for hand-dyed blue leather. #46 Blue PetrolA lighter grey-blue that can fit navy especially well, worth trying if #06 reads too dark. |
| Burnished Tan | #03 Light BrownReinforces the warm tan and burnished highlights. #10 CognacAdds depth and richness to the burnished effect. |
| Beechnut | #03 Light BrownBest match for medium tan. #10 CognacEnhances warmth and natural depth. |
Carmina Color Match
Reasoning below is based on Saphir's own color descriptions rather than hands-on testing against Carmina leather, so treat it as a starting point and adjust based on what you see on the shoe.
| Finish | Recommended Colors |
|---|---|
| Black | #01 BlackFor black shoes, always use black polish rather than a neutral or colored cream. |
| Navy | #06 NavyA very dark blue, almost black in the jar, made to recolor dark blue leather. |
| Ruby | #10 CognacA warm, versatile shade; if Ruby reads lighter than expected, #03 Light Brown may match better. |
| Tobacco | #03 Light BrownOne of the lightest browns Saphir offers, suited to light brown and yellow-tinged tan tones. |
| Bourbon | #10 CognacA warm, classic cognac tone that suits Bourbon's rich caramel color. #37 Medium BrownA milk-chocolate alternative if Cognac reads too warm or orange. |
| Natural | #02 NeutralSuitable for any shade but black, a safe choice that conditions and shines without shifting the color. |
| Snuff | #03 Light BrownThe lightest brown in the range, a fit for Snuff's warm tan tone. |
| Tanned | #03 Light BrownMatches a warm, sun-tanned tone without darkening the leather. |
| Burgundy | #08 BordeauxA warm burgundy shade made specifically for burgundy-colored leather. #09 MahoganyLeans redder than a typical brown, a good alternative if Burgundy shows more red-brown depth. |
Application Tips
Nourish first
Before applying colored cream, treat the shoes with Saphir Renovateur, a beeswax and mink oil conditioning formula that hydrates open-grain calfskin.
The "less is more" rule
Cream polishes contain high concentrations of pigment. Apply in thin, pea-sized dabs using a cotton chamois cloth, massage in circular motions, and buff clean with a horsehair brush.
Burnishing effects
To replicate Allen Edmonds' signature dark-rimmed toe caps and heel quarters, use a small amount of #05 Dark Brown on the tips of your Coffee or Dark Chili shoes.
Avoid color buildup
Nervous about changing a complex patina like Walnut or Dark Chili? Alternate every few shines with #02 Neutral cream for conditioning and shine without adding pigment.
When in doubt, go darker
Torn between two close shades? Pick the slightly darker one, it does a better job masking scratches and reviving faded color than a lighter match.
Color change is gradual
Only a small fraction of a cream's pigment actually stays on the leather per application, so a colored cream won't noticeably shift your shoe's shade until it's been used many times.
Samples
Not sure a color is right before committing to a full tin? Order a sample to color match or spot test first.
Samples don't cover a whole shoe, they're meant for color matching and spot testing only.